Zinfandel: A Grape with a Dual Identity

Zinfandel, a grape varietal deeply intertwined with California's viticultural identity, has long captivated wine enthusiasts and scholars alike with its enigmatic origins. Celebrated for producing robust, fruit-forward red wines, Zinfandel’s journey from obscurity to prominence is a tale of historical intrigue, scientific discovery, and stylistic evolution.

The Rise of Zinfandel in America

In the 19th century, Zinfandel found a welcoming home in California’s vineyards. Initially used to impart deep red hues to blends like Chianti and Burgundy, vintners soon recognized Zinfandel’s potential as a standalone varietal. Its ability to balance ripe fruit, spice, and acidity led to widespread acclaim, solidifying its status as one of America’s most cherished red wines. For many years, Zinfandel was considered an American heritage grape, primarily because it was not cultivated elsewhere in the world.

Tracing the Roots: From Austria to America

The grape’s voyage to the United States began in the 1820s when it was transported from Vienna, Austria, alongside various other varieties. While it garnered little attention on the East Coast, Zinfandel thrived in California’s favorable climate, especially during the Gold Rush era, where it became a staple among miners and settlers. Despite its growing popularity, the grape’s exact origins remained shrouded in mystery.

Zinfandel's distinctive black-skinned grapes give lush, mouth-filling wine with pronounced tannins

Unraveling the Mystery: Zinfandel’s Croatian Heritage

The quest to uncover Zinfandel’s true lineage led to numerous hypotheses. Early theories suggested a connection to Italy’s Primitivo grape, while others posited links to Croatia’s Plavac Mali. However, these conjectures were put to rest through meticulous DNA analysis.

Lots of Tribidrag or Crljenak is grown on Peljesac's seaside vineyards

Mike Grgich’s Role in Solving the Zinfandel Mystery

Among the key figures in demystifying Zinfandel’s origins was Miljenko "Mike" Grgich, the legendary Croatian-born winemaker who rose to fame after his 1973 Chardonnay won the famous 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. Grgich, who had studied viticulture in Croatia before immigrating to the U.S., always believed that Zinfandel bore striking similarities to a grape he had encountered in his homeland.

His early suspicions helped fuel research into Zinfandel’s European roots. Encouraged by Grgich’s insights, wine historians and scientists intensified their search for Zinfandel’s genetic twin. In the 1990s, researchers from the University of California, Davis, working with Croatian viticulturists, identified that Zinfandel was genetically identical to Crljenak Kaštelanski, a nearly extinct variety from Croatia’s Dalmatian coast.

A Legacy Rediscovered

Historical records from the 15th century reveal that Crljenak Kaštelanski played a significant role in winemaking on the Croatian islands of Hvar and Vis. Following the discovery, Grgich became a major advocate for preserving and revitalizing this grape in Croatia. He founded Grgić Vina on the Pelješac Peninsula, where he began producing high-quality wines from Crljenak Kaštelanski (as well as Pošip, another indigenous Croatian grape).

Today, this varietal is experiencing a renaissance, with Croatian winemakers producing exceptional wines under various labels, including Tribidrag, Pribidrag, and Kratošija. Each name reflects regional traditions and offers subtle variations influenced by terroir and vinification techniques. Notably, the name Tribidrag has been recognized due to its historical precedence, with references dating back to the 15th century, predating the first mentions of Primitivo and Zinfandel.

Kairos Winery near Trogir, making outstanding Crljenak (Zinfandel)

Tasting Notes: Zinfandel in Different Styles

American Zinfandel (California Style)

Profile: Bold, full-bodied, and fruit-forward

• Aromas & Flavors: Ripe blackberry, dark cherry, plum, fig, blueberry, baking spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg), black pepper, and vanilla from oak aging

• Mouthfeel: Lush, jammy, and often high in alcohol, with a long, spicy finish

• Food Pairing: Barbecue, grilled meats, aged cheeses, and rich tomato-based pasta dishes

  
  

Croatian Tribidrag / Crljenak Kaštelanski

Profile: More restrained and elegant than its Californian counterpart, with higher acidity and a pronounced minerality

• Aromas & Flavors: Dark fruits (plum, black cherry, mulberry), Mediterranean herbs, dried figs, tobacco, black olive, and hints of earthiness

• Mouthfeel: Medium to full-bodied, structured tannins, and a more pronounced mineral-driven finish

• Food Pairing: Dalmatian peka (slow-cooked meat and vegetables under a bell), grilled Adriatic fish, aged Pag cheese, and truffle-infused dishes
  

Zinfandel Rosé (White Zinfandel & Dry Rosé Styles)

• White Zinfandel (California Style): Sweet, light-bodied, with flavors of strawberries, watermelon, and candied fruit

• Dry Zinfandel Rosé (Croatian Style): Crisp, fresh, and slightly herbaceous, with flavors of wild berries, citrus, and Adriatic sea salt

• Food Pairing: Fresh oysters, light seafood pastas, and summer salads

Red & Rose Zinfandel tasting at the Botaro Winery in the Konavle region near Dubrovnik

Key Wine Regions: Where Zinfandel Thrives

California

• Sonoma County (Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley): Produces some of the finest Zinfandels, known for their balance of fruit and spice

• Napa Valley: Home to richer, more full-bodied expressions, often aged in new oak

• Lodi: A historic Zinfandel-growing region, producing some of the most concentrated and jammy styles

• Paso Robles: Known for bold, high-alcohol Zinfandels with deep fruit flavors

Croatia

• Kaštela (near Split): The birthplace of Zinfandel (Crljenak Kaštelanski), with boutique wineries reviving the grape

• Pelješac Peninsula: Produces structured, mineral-driven versions with Mediterranean herb nuances

• Hvar & Vis Islands: Historically significant Zinfandel-growing regions, now seeing renewed cultivation

• Konavle Valley (south of Dubrovnik): Emerging as a prime location for elegant Tribidrag wines

Taste at the Source: Discover Zinfandel’s Croatian Roots

If you're eager to experience Zinfandel where it all began, a journey through Croatia’s Dalmatian coast offers the perfect opportunity to explore the grape’s true origins. From boutique wineries in Kaštela to the sun-soaked vineyards of Pelješac and the historic vines of Hvar, you can taste firsthand how terroir shapes this fascinating varietal. Reach out to Silvia for a private wine tour and exlcusive tastings, we will curate an unforgettable wine experience tailored just for you!

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